Start sitting, right hand on a low pinch, left hand on a much higher pinch. Pull on and heel hook next to your right hand. Move into a small undercling and a kneebar, and reach very high for a very incut right hand undercling. Finish up The Ice Knife. Daniel comments, “The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ stand.” One of the hardest problems in the world.
The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest. The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that.
★ 5(v15, Solid)
11.2.2013
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