Lucky Strikes 5.13b

This is your ultra classic standard-bearer 8a route. Bring your finger strength along with pinching power. You can clip the first bolt of Liposuction as a directional. The climb starts on the same moves as “Head”, but after pinching the tufa above the first bolt (or 2nd bolt if you are using the first bolt on Liposuction as a directional) you move out right to a succession of more and more powerful moves. Eventually you grab the large but sharp juggy double slots out right, but maintain your cool because the route is not over yet. Like many Sex Cave classic routes, there are no anchors and you down-climb once you top out and pull the lip. A fun fact, the route takes its name from its first ascensionist, Michael Klein who often went by the moniker “Lucky”.