Monkey Space 5.11b

The 1979 first free ascent of Monkey Face, by Chris Jones and Bill Ramsey, provided the initial spark that led to the birth of US sport climbing a few years later. With two 5.11 pitches, fraught with nauseating exposure, it was Smith's hardest route when first freed. Begin by following the Pioneer Route to Bohn Street. Pitch 1: (5.11a). Traverse left with increasing exposure, to a bouldery crux over a bulge. Finish with a naturally protected crack (gear to 2") into the West Face Cave. Pitch 2: (5.11b) Muscle up a short wall of overhanging pocket leading to a simple finish.