First climbed more than 60 years ago, the orginal full-length route on the Monument remained steeped in mystery, as it gained a reputation as Smith's most dangerous route. Today, the mystery is solved, after the preparation of Star Driven on the east wall discovered orginal hardware farther right than anyone had previously imagined. While far from safe, the actual route doesn't deserve its fierce reputation. Pitch 1: (5.5) Climb a long, deep chimney, either in a single pitch or two shorter leads. Emerge onto a broad shelf. Pitch 2: (5.6) Climb a short slab to a ledge. Pitch 3: (5.6) Travese far right along junk-strewed ledges past Direct Drive to the unexposed base of Star Driven. Pitch 4: (5.10c) Climb the first pitch of Star Driven. Pitch 5: (5.7 A1) The original line pendulumed left to the obvious flake crack/chimney - you'll need to figure out a way to do the same. Pitch 6: (5.7 A2) Mixed aid and free climbing up the obvious groove leads into a chimney ending at a massive gendarme. Pitch 7: (5.7) Tap
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