Currently, access to Zen Pen is only possible due to the generosity of the VFW Post 7441. The owners of the VFW have informally allowed climbers to park and access their land in order to hike to the riverside area of Zen Pen. Make sure to park in the dirt/grass parking lot only. Parking on the asphalt is for customers of the VFW only. Additionally, various private properties immediately border the cove and riverside. Please be respectful, responsible, and mindful when being here.
The allure of this test piece has drawn boulderers from all over the US and for good reason too. This boulder is truly great and it has all the hallmarks to prove it with aesthetics to spare. A remarkably Texas-shaped starting hold climbs into sculpted crimps and finishes with thuggy southern style. Situated on a beautiful orange and brown wave with choss on either side, it's a miracle that such a great climb lies between.
Blew the pulley on my rh pinky going for the lip, buddy taped and switched my grip position and sent a few goes later, mega psyched to put this one away.
thought id be able to take it down first T so did some visualization and made it happen. still had to try hard tho and barely latched the lip w 3. don't know about grade cus it was a flash and the jury is split here on 8a. ill take the points for now since i downgraded color of fire. This climb is nutso sick sauce and any1 who says otherwise cus grease my pig. this is the perf lil cross country stop. fun challenge if you had more time than I would be to flash every bloc in the zone
★ 4(v11, Solid)
2.20.2022
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