This route is a seldom climbed Reimers classic and starts on the ledge, ~14ft right of "Patience Grasshopper”. Turn on your jet packs from the get go and get ready to stick that ball like a gecko. There are decent pockets on the route, but getting to them from awful holds that are more bumpy suggestions than holds is the real challenge. The good pocket past the lip of the roof is quite a blind reach, but with some try hard and a gratuitous display of locking off, you'll have no problems. Like all the routes on “Insect Wall”, the head wall is super fun especially if you have successfully taken care of business down below.
Finally took it down! Longest project I’ve ever had. Hard to know when you need a beta swap if the moves aren’t bad in isolation, but changing beta at the finish is exactly what I needed. OG guidebook grade is 13c, but much stronger climbers than me have all upgraded it to 13d. First of the grade!
★ 5(5.13d, Solid)
3.19.2022
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