Start standing and with two big flat edges located in the middle of the face. Climb up and left through a right hand sidepull and some slopers to access the positive crimp rail before topping out straight up (shares a topout with Tripadog Arete). The downclimb for the problem is the large crack on the corner of the boulder pointed at Biceptual, just right of Cheshire Smile.
So sick. Would be all the stars if the right hand crimp didn’t wanna split me open.
Biceptual felt hard without the kneebar, but very doable. I’ll be back
Tried sporadically over the years. Last summer had a session where I fell ~8 times on the final throw. This year I wisened up and changed my beta quickly. Dry fired brutally. Melted off the swing distressingly. Sent gorgeously.
Wanted to try unbirthday after and got hailed out as I laid my pads down :.(
Always avoided this one for that right hand 3 finger crimp. The trick was to come back after a summer of rehabbing a right ringer finger pulley strain with zero expectations. Couple tries with some magic wind condis after doing biceptual.
★ 3(v11, Solid)
6.26.2021
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