Climb the striking right arete feature of the gigantic boulder from a stand start. The crux comes up high so don't take this line for granted. Rope rehearsal and/or top-roping is recommended.
I vividly remember Joe’s first ascent on an early morning Friday the 13th session in September 2019. After he sent, I rehearsed the climb a couple of times on a rope and discovered that I had some pretty redpoint style beta for the mantle. The lower crux was also particularly difficult for me.
I eventually worked my way through the lower crux, but by the time I reached the the final sequence before the mantle, my forearms were so pumped I could barely feel them. I made the decision to downclimb and drop.
It would take another four years and countless sessions before I could execute the lower crux again, particularly the left hand stab just below the halfway point. But when I finally did, I was ready to take it to the top. This time, I was much less pumped and I had worked out an alternative topout variation using some good slopers up and left.
I’m incredibly thankful for this climb, for the experience, and especially for Joe. Getting to witness and support one of my best friends, someone I’ve looked up to for years, as he realized a dream is something I’ll always appreciate.
Thanks, Joe, for everything.
Unrelated to the story… This might just be the best highball in the canyon.
★ 4(v6, Solid)
5.6.2023
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