I used the knee bar beta for opening moves. It took some finagling for me but it’s rad when you figure it out. I found moving out right to small crimp was easier with higher feet and then you can place a high left heel and cross over with left hand. Keeping feet low also works and is the more popular beta.
NONE of the traditional beta.
Lots of surprising dynamic drop downs instead of holding tension. But so stoked to have found a way to move fast and efficient through the boulder and ride out momentum. A boulder absolutely in my style of climbing that could circumnavigate the traditional betas in almost every way.
Extra stoked to have tried the boulder a few times in the morning, nap, then send first go at night. What a phenomenal way to end this trip to Squamish.
Also — I’m genuinely surprised more people especially flexi folks aren’t using the bomber feet out left to “layback” then Gaston and instead use the heel and iron cross method 🤷🏻♀️
★ 4(v9, Solid)
8.8.2026
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