King lines don’t need grades. They have reputations instead. This is one such example. The entire boulder slid about 10 feet downhill 15 years ago, revealing perfect holds on an otherwise blank face, and lowering the angle of the slab, now making the lip barely usable. Begin on an absolutely perfect incut edge, reach for a pocket, and bomb to the preposterous sloping lip. If you somehow stick it, traverse left before a tenuous mantle (V4ish) and a victory romp up a 40-foot 5.6 friction slab to a true summit and one of the finest views in the canyon. Downclimb the 5.2 arete to climber’s right.
What. A. Line. I tried this for a couple sessions last September and the move to the lip felt impossible. I thought it was another “almost perfect” line marred by one stopper move. I tried it on a whim in slightly cooler conditions with good skin, and suddenly stuck it easily! Fired it twice to make sure it wasn’t a fluke! That move is pretty morpho, and I suspect someone taller might be able to static it. Grade opinions may vary, but kinglines don’t need grades. They have reputations instead 😉.
★ 5(v8, Solid)
3.29.2026
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