Pull onto the sail of the Grandma at the middle of the face. Roughly 5.12 slab climbing takes you to a clearly visible xenolith right as the angle begins to steepen. Climb unwaveringly up the middle of the face to 3 rock scar huecos just below the top of the boulder. After the xenolith, the climbing becomes rapidly irreversible, and the safety of the lip is guarded by a last move crux. Attempting to boulder this line is an extremely serious proposition. Luckily, there is a lovely 3 bolt anchor in exactly the right spot for comfy, safe, top roping. I suspect a bit of extra height may make this one substantially easier, but only time will tell.
A moment I can’t possibly express.
Did the FA on TR over Thanksgiving in 2013. A lifetime later, experience, opportunity and… mood, allowed me to climb it again in true Buttermilks style.
No pads, no people, on the front of a storm. It’s been almost a year, and I’m still digesting.
★ 5(v?, Solid)
3.11.2021
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