Coopers most infamous sandbag! Many V7 Climbers are sucked down here thinking they are going to climb one of Coopers best V7s,only to find that it's not the best, nor is it V7. Sit start in the hueco and climb into a slanting crimp. Keep tension and find a way to gain the pocket way above your head before cutting loose to a jug that's not quite as good as you want it to be. Also height-dependent, so shorties might have to get creative or dynamic with their beta.
Honestly felt V10 😅. Standard beta is way too reachy to feel reasonable, but this crazy drop-knee-knee-bar unlocked it for me. It might be slightly easier physically to dyno righty to the pocket, but it’s really low-percentage. This beta was higher-percentage for me. I think someone maybe an inch or two taller with good flexibility could do the drop kneebar thing and static to the pocket.