Originally established at V6, and certainly wasn't a picnic at that grade. This line has enjoyed renewed popularity in recent times. Sit start on jugs and complete several powerful, gym-style bicep moves to get you to the juggy lip. Hold it together for one more lockoff to the top. Don't climb this one if the undercling is damp. While you can often climb damp rock here, we can't risk breaking that hold, as it is already flexing a little.
Awesome power climb. It’s possible the undercling could break one day, but hopefully not. Originally given V6/7 by infamous sandbagger Ray Weber, I repeated it many years later and felt it was a modern V8. Someone later broke the good undercling at the bottom and I couldn’t repeat it (though I always tried it at the end of each session on The Pain Box V10), so I stupidly thought it might be V9. As it turns out, it just felt harder at the end of the session in the summer 😅. The grade has settled around V8, with some suggesting V7. It’s basically a gym climb.