Climb Sunshine, but with an important rule: all of the holds to the right of the prow are off. From the starting holds, climb through the sloper pinch and smile crimp to finish left of the prow. Don’t bail left into the crack for the topout.
Psyched! First maybe 9. After smiley, it’s ~V5. I’ll take the grade for short beta, but I think it’s soft and Fever is harder.
Beta: Crank right bicep after first move to get as high as possible, which allows max weight on left heel, which allows most perfect left pinch placement, which is the main factor to hit smiley.