Castle Rock State Park Climbing

Last Updated: Aug, 2026
3,524
Ascents
192
Boulders
54
Routes
Guide moderated by Kimbrough Moore & Shannon Joslin

ABOUT Castle Rock State Park

This digital Castle Rock State Park climbing guidebook gives you GPS navigation, verified topos, and beta for hundreds of climbs. Explore classics and hidden gems with offline access to maps, directions, and beta videos. Whether it's your first visit or fiftieth, KAYA makes your Castle Rock State Park days smoother, safer, and more dialed.

Before he was known for the world’s hardest deep water solos, or the world’s hardest sport climbs, or the world’s hardest boulders... Chris Sharma was just a local Santa Cruz kid, psyched on the sandstone of Castle Rock. We like to think there's a 90s Santa Cruz dude in all of us, and when you’re feeling demoralized, you can tap into his endless fount of psych. If you listen real close, he’ll tell you about Castle Rock:

... it’s good yo. You can grab the slopers and squeeze juice right out the rock, like this... pszaaa! Then you jump to the gaston li... Show more
This digital Castle Rock State Park climbing guidebook gives you GPS navigation, verified topos, and beta for hundreds of climbs. Explore classics and hidden gems with offline access to maps, directions, and beta videos. Whether it's your first visit or fiftieth, KAYA makes your Castle Rock State Park days smoother, safer, and more dialed. Before he was known for the world’s hardest deep water solos, or the world’s hardest sport climbs, or the world’s hardest boulders... Chris Sharma was just a local Santa Cruz kid, psyched on the sandstone of Castle Rock. We like to think there's a 90s Santa Cruz dude in all of us, and when you’re feeling demoralized, you can tap into his endless fount of psych. If you listen real close, he’ll tell you about Castle Rock: ... it’s good yo. You can grab the slopers and squeeze juice right out the rock, like this... pszaaa! Then you jump to the gaston like bhaaa! … He goes in like this, without pause, so he's always there when you need him. The vaqueros sandstone of Castle Rock is reminiscent of Fontainebleau, and although the comparison is rather generous, it gives you the general vibe. With friendly rock, a range of difficulties, and flat landings, this might be the best climbing in the Bay Area. Head out of the new parking lot and walk right (south) on Skyline Blvd. for 0.2 miles to the old parking lot. From here, walk uphill (south) along the Castle Rock Trail. Either make an immediate right onto a single file trail to pass by Parking Lot Rock, or continue along the main trail. Conditions: Slopers like the cold, so a chilly day is going to be best. Otherwise, summers are hot but doable. As with all sandstone, the rock needs 3-5 days to dry after rain. If you climb on damp rock, you’re likely to break a hold, permanently changing the climb. Don’t do that. Parking: Make your way to Saratoga Ave. in the quaint town of Saratoga. Follow CA-9/Big Basin Way up the mountain to the west for about 7 miles. Turn left on Skyline Blvd. once you reach the top. In 2.6 miles you will see the new parking lot on your right (west). The ideal parking is along the road 1/4 mile farther along Skyline Blvd. near the old parking lot, but these spots fill up fast. Rules: Open 6:00am to sunset. No furry friends allowed. No wire brushes, glass bottles, picking plants, or smoking. No climbing for 3-5 days after rain. Visit wetrockpolice.com/castlerock or call (408) 868-9540 for conditions. Accessibility: This is one of the most accessible areas, and while the climbing isn’t right near the parking, industrious wheelchair users have made the approach. From the old parking, go south on the main Castle Rock Trail for 1/3 mile. It is wider and not as steep as the common approach via Parking Lot Rock. This information is confirmed by ParacCiffHangers. Bathroom: There is a wheelchair accessible bathroom at the old and new parking lots, and another accessible bathroom at Castle Rock itself. Land Manager: Castle Rock State Park

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Recent Ascents in Castle Rock State Park

KAYA CLIMBER
CLIMB
DETAILS
DATE
ERIC WONG
@ericps
Groundation (aka Yabo Problem) v7
I thought this climb was too morpho a couple years ago, I must’ve grown
★ 4(v7, Solid)
Three Days Ago
KELLEN COLE
@kellens.crux
Beak Traverse v3
Highlight of my first real outdoor trip. Made this way harder than it had to be with the mantle haha. Made the send feel better though cause I fought for my life at the end
★ 5(v3, Solid)
Three Days Ago
KELLEN COLE
@kellens.crux
The Warm Up v1
Looks like I started wrong. Oh well, next time.
★ 5(v1, Solid)
Three Days Ago
KELLEN COLE
@kellens.crux
Mr. Magoo (aka Magoo Face) v1
mountain project claims this variation is v2 - felt quite easy due to my height
★ 5(v2, Solid)
Three Days Ago
KELLEN COLE
@kellens.crux
Roof Traverse v3
Didn't feel like a v3 but whatever I'll take it. First v3 (and v3 flash)
★ 5(v3, Soft)
Three Days Ago
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Areas in Castle Rock State Park

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