Fairangel Valley Climbing

This digital Fairangel Valley climbing guidebook gives you GPS navigation, verified topos, and beta for hundreds of climbs. Explore classics and hidden gems with offline access to maps, directions, and beta videos. Whether it's your first visit or fiftieth, KAYA makes your Fairangel Valley days smoother, safer, and more dialed.

With approximately 240 boulder problems, Fairangel Valley is home to gigantic talus fields, big blocks, and excellent bouldering potential in a gorgeous alpine setting. This includes the two boulder fields on the south side of the valley, the sunbaked slope on the north side, and the talus streaming down from Tunnel Vision Gully (also called Fairangel Gully or Gap). There are a handful of problems developed above Tunnel Vision Gully way back by the tarn in an area called The Aerie, including the notorious Jelly Belly (V10), but you will have to go explore to find... Show more

This digital Fairangel Valley climbing guidebook gives you GPS navigation, verified topos, and beta for hundreds of climbs. Explore classics and hidden gems with offline access to maps, directions, and beta videos. Whether it's your first visit or fiftieth, KAYA makes your Fairangel Valley days smoother, safer, and more dialed. With approximately 240 boulder problems, Fairangel Valley is home to gigantic talus fields, big blocks, and excellent bouldering potential in a gorgeous alpine setting. This includes the two boulder fields on the south side of the valley, the sunbaked slope on the north side, and the talus streaming down from Tunnel Vision Gully (also called Fairangel Gully or Gap). There are a handful of problems developed above Tunnel Vision Gully way back by the tarn in an area called The Aerie, including the notorious Jelly Belly (V10), but you will have to go explore to find them. Fairangel’s classic meadow boulders, which line the edges of the valley, have always been popular destinations with nice flat landings. In more recent years the talus fields have been explored and many of the best looking lines and faces have been developed. The talus field approaches may be difficult and require expert boulder hopping skills and numerous pads. For most of the season the boulders on the south side of the valley are shaded by the Pinnacle, except around the summer solstice. Snow can persist in the talus into the middle or end of summer, sometimes offering perfect snow landings for some of the problems. The north side of the talus is reliably sunny and warm, perhaps too much during the height of the summer, but becomes great as the climbing season wanes. Towards evening, the setting sun streams through the higher valley all the way to the road, making it a favorite time to be in the valley. The recommended parking and access for Fairangel Valley depends heavily on whether your objective is on the north or south side of the valley. South Approach: Park near the outhouse and use the Diamond Creek Crossing. This approach trail is the same access to anything on the south side of Fairangel: Red Light District, Wonderland Talus, Cirque of the Unpadables. Hike north through Diamond North and then follow the meadow left into Fairangel Valley. North Approach: Park at the end of the road for the areas at the back of the valley and the north side. There are a few trails that lead to upper crossings for Archangel Creek, but they take a little exploring to find. Once across the creek, you will find a good, flat trail that heads back to Fairangel Pond and Tunnel Vision. Around Fairangel Pond it is easy cross the valley from north to south, but crossing the valley further downstream is difficult. Parking at the end of the road can be interesting. The road simply stops at a gate marking private property and there is no turn around or pullouts, so getting your vehicle pointed downhill can be a challenge (10-point turns). Park on the shoulder and do your best not to block the road for others. On nice days this area can be busy. Remember you can always walk the road from lower down.