New Joe's Climbing

This digital New Joe's climbing guidebook gives you GPS navigation, verified topos, and beta for hundreds of climbs. Explore classics and hidden gems with offline access to maps, directions, and beta videos. Whether it's your first visit or fiftieth, KAYA makes your New Joe's days smoother, safer, and more dialed.

New Joe’s Area sits on a hillside on the east side of the 57 highway just below the old Wilberg Mine site in an area known to locals as Grime’s Wash. The Wilberg Mine was started by Cyrus Wilberg in 1949 and at its peak produced an average of 11,000 tons of coal per day. Without the mine, the highway to New Joe’s never would have been built.
It’s a great all around area for Joe’s Valley with all grade levels of boulders and easy access camping near the vault toilets. Some of the most famous problems exist here, such as Black Lung V13 and Planet of the Apes V6/7.
One of the ben... Show more

This digital New Joe's climbing guidebook gives you GPS navigation, verified topos, and beta for hundreds of climbs. Explore classics and hidden gems with offline access to maps, directions, and beta videos. Whether it's your first visit or fiftieth, KAYA makes your New Joe's days smoother, safer, and more dialed. New Joe’s Area sits on a hillside on the east side of the 57 highway just below the old Wilberg Mine site in an area known to locals as Grime’s Wash. The Wilberg Mine was started by Cyrus Wilberg in 1949 and at its peak produced an average of 11,000 tons of coal per day. Without the mine, the highway to New Joe’s never would have been built. It’s a great all around area for Joe’s Valley with all grade levels of boulders and easy access camping near the vault toilets. Some of the most famous problems exist here, such as Black Lung V13 and Planet of the Apes V6/7. One of the benefits of New Joe’s is that you park once and most of the problems are within a 15 minute hike. Also, it’s typically the warmer area of Joe’s Valley so during the colder months it’s the place to be. Even though it’s called New Joe’s, it’s actually pretty old with the first problems being discovered in the late '90s. Ben Moon’s FA of Black Lung around that time is actually what put Joe’s Valley on the map as a world-class climbing destinati New Joe’s has two access points off of Highway 57. One is at the South Trailhead up an old 4x4 dirt road (turn right off Hwy 57 at Mile Marker 10 and follow the road all the way up, passing the vault toilets on your right). The trailhead is between two small boulders at the north end of the lot. It has a pretty small day use only parking area up there so in the busy months it may not be the best option. It's not a bad warm up just to hike in from the camping/toilets. The other access point is just slightly higher up the highway and has a kiosk at the North Trailhead. Follow the obvious trail in on the east side of the road. As with most of Joe's Valley, you can easily navigate New Joe's following the sign posts along the trails showing the boulders in the order that you'll come across them on the trail.