'Crankshaft' V7 🚘
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Starting on a pinch and a shallow undercling, make an awkward high tension move to a good edge up and right. Finish the problem by climbing into the latter half of 'Driveshaft'.
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On my first try, I got up to the mantle, but I fell trying to figure it out.
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One of my new homies, @aussie_edzo (the spotter on the far left), ended up suggesting to bring my foot in closer so that I could position myself better for the rock over portion of the mantle...for some silly reason I wanted to keep trying the mantle the way I was doing it 🤦 5+ more redpoint attempts and 5+ more falls I finally decided to listen to Austin's beta...
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The closer foot position he suggested helped me rock over and get the better of the pinch sloper at the top with ease. So easily that you can see the "I told you that beta would work" moment when Austin throws his arms in the air 🙆
★ 4(v7, Soft)
8.27.2023
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