The Backbone 5.13a

There no more classic-looking arete in American climbing than this spine-tingling route to the top of Monkey Face. Despite flawless rock, and a few magnificent moments, the experience doesn't quite match the lofty expectations, with good rests on ledges to the left. Climbing the column straight on, without stepping around to the left (5.13c) makes up for the shortcomings of the path of least resistance. Originally climbed with Sheer Trickery as an approach, almost everyone traverses in from the east side, via easy ledges (5.5). Pitch 1: (5.13a) Slap up the amazing arete, before stepping right to a belay on the West Face. Pitch 2: (5.12a) Power up good holds on purple rock into the West Face Cave. Pitch 3: (5.12a) Instead of the usual 5.11b exit, head for the summit via an overhanging wall to the right.