With a blend of awkward free climbing and serious nailing, this respected testpiece from 1972 sees very few ascents. The entire first pitch will soon go free (5.13?), perhaps attracting modern climbers to this historic line. Begin uphill from the cluster of sport lines, below an uninspiring flare. Pitch 1: (5.9) Thrash up a bulging flare on crumbling stone, and scramble to an unexposed shelf. Pitch 2: (A3) Nail a seam past a patch of squalid stone to a hanging belay. Pitch 3: (A4) Crux nailing directly above the anchor (with factor two fall potential) leads to a left-leaning seam and an alcove belay. Pitch 4: (A2 5.6) Diagonal left, passing a via ferrata, before turning a corner and finishing with a junky slab. Pitch 5: (5.1). Complex wandering along the ridge crest ends on the summit of The Wombat. Scramble down the backside.
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